{"id":26224,"date":"2025-11-25T11:51:47","date_gmt":"2025-11-25T11:51:47","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/insidelaplace.rcassocies.com\/?p=26224"},"modified":"2025-11-27T09:56:01","modified_gmt":"2025-11-27T09:56:01","slug":"trying-to-muzzle-the-negociants-i-dont-believe-that-for-a-second","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/insidelaplace.rcassocies.com\/en\/2025\/11\/25\/trying-to-muzzle-the-negociants-i-dont-believe-that-for-a-second\/","title":{"rendered":"There is strength in unity"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Fran\u00e7ois-Xavier Maroteaux\n<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Co-owner and President of Ch\u00e2teau Branaire-Ducru &\nPresident of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Introduction<\/b><\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Gerda Beziade : In the October 2022 interview, you told me that one of the challenges was being present on all fronts while building a true partnership with the n\u00e9gociants. You\u2019re also someone who believes in collective action. Is that why you agreed to become President of the Union of the Grands Crus of Bordeaux?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>

Fran\u00e7ois-Xavier Maroteaux :\u00a0<\/strong>Yes, because I deeply believe in the collective. And even more so today. Of course, it\u2019s essential to work on one\u2019s own brand, but we all have a shared interest in the Bordeaux brand being strong. For the classified growths in particular, we move forward together so that our wines become better known.<\/span><\/p>

I feel this even more through my experience in the markets: with Branaire-Ducru, we often meet people who say, \u201cThis is really good, but I didn\u2019t know it.\u201d And I think this will be even more true in the future. Today\u2019s wine lovers are curious, open to many regions and styles, but they don\u2019t necessarily pay attention to the origin or the methods. They simply want to discover good wines.<\/p>

Naturally, tastes develop over time, and fortunately there are still enthusiasts who love Bordeaux for its style, and Saint-Julien for its identity. But more than ever, the collective is a strength \u2014 and also an effective way, including economically, to promote our brands around the world at a reasonable cost.<\/p>

GB : Do you still find the time? Because, in that same interview, you mentioned that the problem is that a day only has 24 hours\u2026<\/strong><\/em><\/p>

FXM :\u00a0<\/strong>(smiles) Yes, that\u2019s true. I\u2019ll be honest: some things take more time, especially for Branaire-Ducru. I have a long to-do list of topics to address, and sometimes you really have to juggle everything. But I remain convinced that if we move forward collectively, everyone will benefit \u2014 including our own estates.<\/span><\/p>

Today, we spend a lot of time thinking together, in different groups, about how to make Bordeaux evolve: how to bring Bordeaux back to the table, how to interest the younger generation in wine. And these reflections also feed my thinking for Branaire-Ducru.<\/p>

Just earlier, I was discussing these matters with someone: you hear an idea, think \u201cthat\u2019s not bad,\u201d and try to see how you can adapt it. This role forces me to stay in this dynamic \u2014 to understand, to listen. Yes, it takes time, but it\u2019s also fascinating.<\/p>

GB : You once told me that you thanked your father because he passed on this message to you: \u201cI\u2019ve traveled a lot; now it\u2019s your turn to focus on the n\u00e9gociants.\u201d Do you think, as Bernard Burtschy does, that the Bordeaux Place must reinvent itself \u2014 particularly by regaining more control over distribution, like major brands do?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>

FXM :\u00a0<\/strong>Reinvent itself? Yes, without a doubt. We all have to learn to work a little differently. For a long time, the model was simple: we sent the wines to the n\u00e9gociants, who then circulated them by email worldwide. Today, we\u2019re going back to basics: we need to meet clients, talk, present the wines. It takes more time, it\u2019s more demanding, but I\u2019m convinced this is how we\u2019ll win back consumers.<\/span><\/p>

All the estates that travel, that explain their wines, their style, and what Bordeaux represents \u2014 whether it\u2019s Palmer, Pichon-Baron, Yquem, Branaire-Ducru or Clos Fourtet \u2014 are all contributing to the same goal: spreading the good word about Bordeaux. We\u2019re doing it differently than before because the context requires us to be more efficient and to achieve concrete results. The market demands it.<\/p>

What complicates things today is above all the lack of confidence. Just this morning, I was in a meeting with a n\u00e9gociant returning from England. He told me: \u201cOur clients have never had so much money, but they don\u2019t trust the situation, so they don\u2019t spend.\u201d And that\u2019s a real issue \u2014 in France as well. When you provide zero visibility, everything freezes. People and companies become cautious; they delay spending.<\/p>

I was recently talking with a friend who works in a publicly listed company, doing extremely well financially. I said: \u201cWe need companies to start inviting their clients to restaurants again, to celebrate a contract, to share a moment.\u201d He replied: \u201cYou\u2019re right, everything\u2019s going great for us, but I told my teams to tighten everything, just in case. I prefer to be safe, even though we\u2019re about to announce excellent results.\u201d\u00a0That\u2019s exactly the point: everything looks good on paper, but confidence is missing \u2014 and that\u2019s what is holding everything back.<\/p>

GB : So you still believe in the Bordeaux Place model, with the freedom it gives to n\u00e9gociants?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>

FXM :\u00a0<\/strong>Trying to restrain the n\u00e9gociants \u2014 I don\u2019t believe in it for a second. It wouldn\u2019t benefit us, nor them.<\/span><\/p>

There will be, in any case, a natural consolidation, for economic reasons. The n\u00e9gociant profession requires a lot of capital, and today, for a client, whether they buy from X, Y or Z, the bottle is the same. What makes the difference is the service: guidance, guaranteed perfect storage, the ability to deliver quickly, or to find a rare bottle \u2014 a Latour 1989, for example \u2014 with the assurance that it comes, ideally, ex-ch\u00e2teau. That is the true added value.<\/p>

But we can see it: some clients are concentrating their purchases with a smaller number of houses, out of fear of not being delivered. That\u2019s a reality. And we too are becoming more cautious. Even if we currently don\u2019t have major payment issues, it\u2019s clear that some n\u00e9gociant houses will naturally disappear for lack of means.<\/p>

However, I repeat: I absolutely do not believe in the idea of restricting the n\u00e9gociants. There have been attempts in the past \u2014 they were a fiasco. And I don\u2019t believe in \u201cpools\u201d either. Maybe if I had ten hectares it would be different, but with sixty hectares and about 320,000 to 350,000 bottles to sell each year, diversity is an asset. Besides, our major n\u00e9gociants are quite happy that the pie isn\u2019t divided into ten slices!<\/p>

It is now up to us to identify the houses that bring us real value, those that open interesting niches for us. We simply need to work differently.
In early September, I spent ten days in Asia with a n\u00e9gociant: we visited his clients together, organised events \u2014 and often, we are the ones sponsoring the wines. It\u2019s a real form of partnership, marketing support that doesn\u2019t go through price.<\/p>

And it\u2019s not a question of size: I\u2019ve had excellent experiences with smaller n\u00e9gociants who have strong distribution and a real sense of the market. I\u2019ve discovered places I would never have visited with major n\u00e9gociants, simply because this particular one had a unique presence there.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Chateau Branaire Ducru<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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The Market <\/b><\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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GB : How do you view the fine Bordeaux wine market today?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>

FXM :\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>First of all, I believe we have never made wines as good as the ones we make now. That is obvious to me. Consumers don\u2019t always realise it, but every time we travel to present our wines, people are surprised by how approachable and balanced they are. Today we produce wines that are perfectly adapted to the market.<\/span><\/p>

I also notice, when travelling, that many people are coming back to Bordeaux. Wine lovers realise that there is undeniable value for money here, and that you can still find major labels at prices that no longer exist elsewhere.<\/p>

Fifteen years ago, Bordeaux was the one setting the tone and driving prices upward. Today, it\u2019s the opposite: all the other regions have caught up with us and, very often, Bordeaux is now the least expensive region for top-tier labels.<\/p>

So I\u2019m rather optimistic. We simply need to stay close to wine lovers and professionals, and wait for economic growth to pick up again \u2014 although that, of course, is beyond our control. Above all, confidence must return: people need to feel like buying wine again rather than saving money out of fear of a new tax, higher insurance costs, or yet another uncertainty.<\/p>

It\u2019s the same situation in the restaurant industry \u2014 a general climate of caution. And this time, unlike in previous crises, this one is global. Since September, I\u2019ve been to Asia, Europe, and around France: everywhere, the observation is the same \u2014 the money is there, but the confidence is not.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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The En Primeur campaign<\/b><\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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GB : How can Bordeaux maintain its appeal for the En Primeur campaign?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>

FXM :\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>First of all, we have a beautiful vintage. This is the first and most important thing. And what is interesting is that everywhere, tasters are recognising the quality: 2025 is a great vintage, not only in Bordeaux but in the wine world in general. That makes the message much easier.<\/span><\/p>

I\u2019m optimistic about the 2025 campaign, but we need to remain realistic. We will start from 2024 prices. I\u2019m not saying prices will remain the same \u2014 I think the vintage deserves an increase \u2014 but even with a price rise, Bordeaux will remain very competitive for such quality.<\/p>

Another crucial point: volumes will be historically low. For Saint-Julien, for example, I think we\u2019ll be around 25 to 27 hectolitres per hectare. This is difficult to manage, but likely positive for the market in the longer term. As a comparison, the 2024 En Primeur campaign in the United States was the smallest in a long time, even though 2023 was not a bad year. For 2025, we have a bit more visibility, and importers and distributors around the world will still need wine.<\/p>

There should be no illusions: we won\u2019t return to En Primeur campaigns where 350 brands sell very well. Everyone must adapt. For Branaire-Ducru, we have always been very En Primeur-focused, and we will continue as long as it makes sense. But in two, three, or five years, we may no longer sell the same volumes En Primeur.<\/p>

We are working to increase our presence in the physical (deliverable) market, to stimulate this segment, and I see that the n\u00e9gociants are doing exactly the same. This means the 2025 campaign will likely be more oriented toward n\u00e9gociants, importers, and distributors.<\/p>

GB : <\/strong><\/em>Do you believe En Primeur still has a future, given that new generations live in cities and want to drink their wines immediately?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>

FXM :\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>I do not believe for one second that En Primeur is dead. There will certainly be changes, and perhaps a return to a more traditional role for the n\u00e9gociants, who stock wines to distribute them later. But En Primeur pricing must remain coherent with fundamentals. Some will succeed at this, others will not, and there will be consequences \u2014 as we have already seen and will continue to see.<\/span><\/p>

The partnership with the n\u00e9gociants will evolve, with certain houses positioning themselves more clearly on certain brands. In Saint-Julien, for example, not all n\u00e9gociant houses will continue to sell the 11 classified growths \u2014 and that won\u2019t be a problem. Some n\u00e9gociants will focus their efforts on specific brands and specific distributors, and we will need to be aligned with them.<\/p>

As for me, I bought the 2024 En Primeur wines, and I\u2019m certain we will enjoy them. If not me, then my children. And around the world, there will always be enthusiasts for this. Certainly, En Primeur will represent a smaller share, but we can organise ourselves to stimulate the deliverable segment even further.<\/p>

The major advantage is that we have wines suited to this. Take the 2023s: we tasted them recently, and they are delightful, already very enjoyable. We\u2019re beginning to deliver them to the n\u00e9gociants, and we need to create new demand. Some consumers want fruity, youthful wines, and it\u2019s up to us to showcase them.<\/p>

GB : <\/strong><\/em>Thanks to you, we have invited today Maxime Courvoisier, co-manager and sommelier of Restaurant Ressources.<\/a>
I read that in Bordeaux, only 34% of the wines on restaurant wine lists are from Bordeaux. Are they too expensive? Are we less patriotic than other regions?<\/strong><\/em><\/p>

FXM :\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>For a long time, it was said that Bordeaux people were closed-minded. The reality is that Bordeaux is probably the most open wine city in the world. That relatively low percentage is also what encouraged this openness.<\/span><\/p>

However, I remain convinced that all enthusiasts who come to Bordeaux for wine come for Bordeaux \u2014 not to drink wines from other regions. It\u2019s our role to ensure that in all the places visited by these tourists, they find our wines. How many times have we heard tourists say: \u201cIn other regions, you see the local wines everywhere, but in Bordeaux, I didn\u2019t expect to be drinking Sancerre or Burgundy!\u201d<\/p>

This is both our openness and an opportunity for development. We need to work more closely with restaurateurs and wine shops. With the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, for example, we are organising a major event in early December in Bordeaux to meet wine merchants, restaurateurs, and private clients \u2014 to show them our wines and inspire them to work with us.<\/p>

We have significant strengths: a n\u00e9gociant system capable of delivering bottles to restaurants very easily \u2014 within 24 or 48 hours in France, and even beyond. In the past, Bordeaux was perceived as a rigid system: \u201cI just receive lists from n\u00e9gociants.\u201d Today, when everyone is seeking economic efficiency, it\u2019s the best moment to update this model. Thanks to the n\u00e9gociants, you can build a strong Bordeaux wine list without multiplying references: two bottles of this, three of that, and easy replenishment.<\/p>

Bordeaux is now the only region capable of offering such depth of vintages, and such diversity between appellations and ch\u00e2teaux. But the model has to be understood. When we don\u2019t highlight it, we forget that it allows this diversity and responsiveness. Some n\u00e9gociant houses are particularly efficient in the restaurant sector, and we need to say so.<\/p>

For the past four or five years, the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux has been going into sommelier schools to explain the Bordeaux model: why n\u00e9gociants exist and what their advantages are. And of course, we must continue going out into the field, making people taste the wines \u2014 whether through the estate or through the n\u00e9gociants. Both are essential.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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I interviewed Fran\u00e7ois-Xavier in October 2022. You can find this interview on our website: Inside La Place \u2013 In partnership with La Place.
\nEven at that time, he strongly defended the Bordeaux Place system, considering the n\u00e9gociants as his primary partners. Three years later, as you will read in this new edition of Regards Crois\u00e9s, his strategy remains unchanged.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":26214,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[450],"tags":[],"appellation":[1051],"profession":[942],"propriete":[1296],"personnalite":[1546],"class_list":["post-26224","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-property","appellation-saint-julien-en","profession-wine-professional","propriete-chateau-branaire-ducru-en","personnalite-francois-xavier-maroteaux"],"yoast_head":"\nThere is strength in unity - Inside La Place<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/insidelaplace.rcassocies.com\/en\/2025\/11\/25\/trying-to-muzzle-the-negociants-i-dont-believe-that-for-a-second\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"There is strength in unity - Inside La Place\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I interviewed Fran\u00e7ois-Xavier in October 2022. You can find this interview on our website: Inside La Place \u2013 In partnership with La Place. Even at that time, he strongly defended the Bordeaux Place system, considering the n\u00e9gociants as his primary partners. 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