Maxime Courvoisier
Managing partner and Sommelier at Restaurant Ressources * Michelin in Bordeaux
Introduction
Gerda Beziade : What are the main challenges you face on a daily basis?
Maxime Courvoisier : The main challenge today is managing to build customer loyalty in a market that, in Bordeaux, is clearly oversaturated.
GB : Yes, apparently Bordeaux is the European city with the highest number of restaurants per inhabitant.
MC : Yes, and we believe that competition is ultimately a good thing. It pushes us to question ourselves every day, to move forward, and it also helps attract customers from elsewhere — outside Bordeaux, outside Aquitaine, even outside France.
We imagined Ressources and Vivants as places built around three core pillars: precise cooking, a sharply curated wine list, and a space that we wanted to feel warm, relaxed, yet always rigorous. In Bordeaux, these three elements rarely came together. There were excellent restaurants with beautiful dishes, or others that were wine-focused with exceptional tools to work with — but rarely all three combined, and even more rarely with that extra soul, that human touch, that sense of sharing and conviviality, all while maintaining a level of service that drives us every day.
That’s how Ressources was born. Very quickly, the Michelin star followed. The Guide understood that we were committed to a quality-driven approach and, above all, that we wanted to offer guests a new kind of experience.
GB : What is the most difficult part of your job?
MC : Standing on your feet for hours, staying physically fit… and constantly questioning yourself. Nothing is ever guaranteed. Even when everything seems to be going well, when the restaurant is full, you still have to anticipate, prepare what’s next, stay one step ahead. It’s not about racing to be the best — it’s about remaining one of those restaurants people talk about, not slipping into irrelevance.
GB : What are the most common expectations your customers have regarding wine and your expertise as a sommelier?
MC : When people come to us, they expect a level of guidance and service that you rarely find elsewhere. Today, we offer a list of around 800 to 900 references in each restaurant. Naturally, the team has to be responsive, proactive, capable of making suggestions, and able to understand every type of guest — whether they’re foreign visitors, tourists, locals, Parisians, whoever. We have to adapt.
That old dress code no longer exists: before, just by watching people walk through the door, you could almost guess what kind of wine would suit each table. Even twenty years ago, in Michelin-starred restaurants, the codes were still very rigid.
Today, much less so — and we’re among those who want to challenge those codes. Advice must be given differently now, with people at the center. Conversation is essential: understanding why guests come to see us and what they expect is fundamental.
The concept behind restaurant ressources
GB : Could you describe the concept behind Restaurant Ressources ?
MC : At Restaurant Ressources, we are three partners. There is of course what you see — the restaurant itself — but also the entire hidden part of the iceberg: the human, social, ecological, and environmental dimension.
Behind all of this is a company called Project Insights, created by Grégory Gouillet, a work psychologist, and Tanguy Laviale. Ressources is not just a restaurant — it is also a laboratory, a place where we test new management methods that are more horizontal than vertical.
Sometimes it works very well. Sometimes it doesn’t. And that’s normal — we work with people. The idea is to learn, to question ourselves, and to keep moving forward.
They also created an association called L’Assiette, now chaired by Tanguy. Its mission is to promote food education among children and young adults.
Every week, we run workshops with students from the Crous de Talence. And recently, during Food Week, we welcomed more than 500 primary school children across four different workshops. Through these moments, we pass on a love of ingredients, cooking, and wine — values that we hope will take root when these children become adults.
Today, fast food is taking up more and more space. We try to act at the source by providing taste education, teaching children to recognise and appreciate seasonal products. The workshops are designed around the senses: touch, sight, smell, and taste.
In both of our establishments, there is no hierarchical structure. Everyone is a chef; everyone is a cook. We believe there is not just one way to get from point A to point B — there are several. What matters is that we get there together.
GB : That’s quite rare, because the restaurant world is usually very hierarchical, with brigades, head chefs, sous-chefs…
MC : Yes, and that is precisely what we don’t want to reproduce. I’m not saying we succeed perfectly every day — we work with humans, with different personalities, some more open, others more hesitant. But together, we move further.
GB : Is your concept also a response to the recruitment challenges facing the restaurant industry?
MC : It is, at the very least, the solution we found to keep our teams engaged in a long-term vision.
The Wine List
GB : When you select a wine for the list, what are the most important criteria?
MC : There isn’t just one criterion, but I would say the three main ones are the human element, emotion, and the expectations of our clientele.
A wine list should never be built according to the sommelier’s personal taste, but according to the taste of the guests. That’s a mistake we see far too often.
For example, we have two establishments: Vivants and Ressources. Vivants is located in a more touristy area, so expectations and consumption habits differ from those at Ressources, which is more out of the way.
The goal at Ressources was to make it a destination restaurant — and we’ve achieved that. But the customer profiles are completely different, and therefore the wine lists are too.
At both places, the selection remains demanding, but it adapts. It took us some time to really understand that — my mistake at first. At Vivants, the wine list offers a broader and more precise range of Bordeaux wines, whereas at Ressources, it’s more eclectic and open.
Bordeaux is also becoming more and more of a seasonal city. You can clearly see cycles: for six months, one style of wine dominates, and then everything shifts with autumn and winter. It’s fascinating to watch.
GB : And this year, which wine was the most in demand?
MC : Bordeaux was the top seller this year. We’re also investing in building very strong wine teams, with real expertise that guests expect and appreciate. They’re the ones who advise and guide, not by pushing the same wine or appellation over and over, but by working with a wide and diverse wine list — which leads to very varied sales.
GB : People often say that Bordeaux wines are underrepresented on wine lists in Bordeaux — on average around 34%. And what about yours?
MC : Today, across our two establishments, Bordeaux and Burgundy dominate, each accounting for around 40%, with the remaining 20% spread across other regions.
There’s also a geographical reality: at Vivants, located in the historic center of Bordeaux, Bordeaux wines represent between 35% and 40% of sales this season.
At Ressources, however, we’re unfortunately far from those numbers: over the year, Bordeaux doesn’t exceed 10% of sales — even though the list is far more extensive. But the clientele there, mostly from Bordeaux, tends to look towards other regions. Bordeaux often comes as the second or third bottle. Many Bordelais already have a cellar at home and come to the restaurant to discover something different.
Today, 95% of our Bordeaux sales come from tourists.
Bordeaux wines
GB : What is your opinion on Bordeaux wines?
MC : I’m originally from Franche-Comté, but a little over ten years ago, I chose to come to Bordeaux to complete a year of sommelier studies.
I picked Bordeaux because in 2013, it was right in the middle of the “Bordeaux bashing” era. I wanted to understand that phenomenon: the why, the how, and especially the direction the region was heading.
Ten years later, we’re seeing the consequences: even in Bordeaux, some restaurants no longer offer Bordeaux wines. And that, I admit, I find hard to understand. You can disagree with certain pricing or environmental strategies, but Bordeaux is not defined by those aspects alone.
In terms of surface area and diversity of appellations, Bordeaux remains one of the largest and most varied wine regions in the world. I can’t imagine that someone couldn’t find pleasure in its wines.
GB : And you — did you find that pleasure in our wines?
MC : Yes, I did, and a long time ago. Even if Bordeaux is not always the most featured region during themed dinners, Bordeaux will always be Bordeaux. It will continue to shine.
Maybe Bordeaux simply forgot its own local market. We discussed this with François-Xavier Maroteaux: the city of Bordeaux, and even France as a whole, were neglected by the Place in favour of international markets. Today, the négociants are coming back to us. People tend to blame restaurants, wine bars, or wine shops — I hear that often — but we are not the only ones responsible.
GB : What are the most common expectations your clients have regarding wine and your expertise as a sommelier?
MC : When people visit us, they expect a level of guidance and service you rarely find elsewhere. At the moment, we offer a selection of around 800 to 900 references in each establishment. Naturally, the team has to be responsive, proactive, and capable of advising every type of guest — whether they’re from abroad, tourists, locals, Parisians, anyone. We have to adapt.
The old dress codes are gone: in the past, just by seeing a table walk in, you could almost guess what style of wine they would want. Twenty years ago, in Michelin-starred restaurants, everything was still very codified. Today, much less so — and we’re among those who want to challenge these codes.
Advice has to be offered differently, with people at the centre. The conversation is essential: understanding why guests come to see us and what they’re hoping for is fundamental.
Chateau Branaire Ducru
GB : Which vintages of Branaire-Ducru do you have on your wine list?
MC : We have 1989, as well as more recent vintages like 2011 and 2016. Bordeaux is fortunate in that, thanks to the négociants, we can still offer older vintages — something almost no other French region can provide.
GB : We began the tasting with the second wine of Château Branaire-Ducru, Duluc 2021. Even though 2021 was a somewhat complicated vintage, it gives immediate pleasure.
MC : Yes, the 2021 surprised me. It had this spicy character you would normally associate with warm, sunny vintages, but without any sensation of heat on the palate.
I later learned why: François-Xavier told us that Petit Verdot had a stronger presence in 2021 — which is quite rare. And with wine, there is always an explanation. Duluc 2021, like Branaire-Ducru, turned out to be a beautiful bottle, offering real pleasure during the tasting.
GB : Is it a wine you would recommend to your customers?
MC : Of course. We made the choice to have teams who guide the customer toward the wine. It’s now very rare for a guest to arrive and say, “I want to drink this.”
There is always an expectation of guidance.
I also understand that for young sommeliers, the great wines of Bordeaux — the first wines — are not always well-known. They’re more expensive and less accessible. They’re more accustomed to the second wines, which they taste at work rather than drink at home. There is a whole culture of Bordeaux wine to pass on to the younger generation — and that’s exactly what we do at the restaurant.
GB : Then we tasted the Duluc 2020, which is superb. I love that vintage on the Right Bank, but this Duluc 2020 truly impressed me.
MC : Yes, it has lovely power, while remaining approachable and charming. It’s a very pleasurable wine, carried by great finesse and elegance that lingers on the finish.
It’s enjoyable already, but it can certainly age — which is something we see more often today. Fifteen or twenty years ago in Bordeaux, you had to wait a long time before opening the wines.
Today, consumers want wines they can drink sooner. Winemakers are adapting. Duluc 2020 is a great vintage, offering both immediate pleasure and ageing potential — the opposite of 2021.
GB : What did you think of the third wine, Duluc 2018?
MC : I Find it very flattering. It’s a sunny vintage, but here, the wine remains appetizing and fresh. I’m not always a fan of 2018s from the Right Bank — often a bit too opulent — but here, the balance is remarkable.
GB : Yes, 2018 stays true to the Branaire-Ducru style: always linear and vertical.
MC : Exactly. Everyone knows 2018 as a warm, sunny vintage, sometimes with very ripe, even slightly cooked fruit. That often shows through in the aromas.
But here, not at all — the wine is driven by beautiful acidity and a straight, vertical structure. There is no heat on the palate, even though the alcohol is above 14%. It’s very elegant and incredibly well-controlled.
GB : Then we tasted three vintages of Branaire-Ducru: 2021, 2017, and 2010. How would you describe Branaire-Ducru in a few words?
MC : I always find Branaire-Ducru to have a restrained, elegant power — almost paradoxical: a contained strength, always precise, always vertical.
There is a lot of freshness, almost a vibrant, acid-driven tension, an appetizing quality that carries the wine. Branaire-Ducru is, to me, one of the great wines of Bordeaux. I’ve never known it to be exuberant.
GB : It never succumbed to the fashion for heavily extracted wines.
MC : Exactly. Even in warm, sunny vintages, Branaire-Ducru never falls into opulence. The terroir and the estate’s style always bring this gentle, suave finish.
GB : Yes, and that constant freshness that carries the wine.
MC : Absolutely. Even in 2021, where the mid-palate structure is lighter, you still find that freshness. And thank goodness vintage variation still exists! I don’t see it as a flaw.
Calling a vintage “complicated” does not mean it’s less good or that it shouldn’t be on a wine list. These vintages often offer more accessible profiles in their youth, with adjusted pricing — and Bordeaux is very good at that.
GB : So you could offer the 2021 on your wine list?
MC : Yes, of course. We cannot only list exceptional vintages. Not all of our guests expect that. As sommeliers, we also have a role to show that even so-called “weak” or “difficult” years can produce excellent wines.
GB : Next, we tasted the 2017 vintage, which was a wonderful surprise for me. The mid-palate had beautiful texture and complexity, and the finish — so typically Branaire-Ducru — kept that vertical freshness with a hint of salinity. François-Xavier mentioned that 2017 was the first vintage vinified with optical sorting.
MC : Yes, that likely played a role. The 2017 has flesh, texture, and a good chew, without being a vintage of strong concentration.
GB : Blind, I never would have guessed it was a 2017. That’s the beauty of discovery.
MC : Exactly. I would have guessed wrong too. The wine gives enormous pleasure. Eight years on, it’s perfect to open right now!
GB : The last bottle we tasted was the exceptional 2010 vintage.
MC : Yes, a more concentrated vintage that requires some preparation — decanting, for example. A great vintage is not always ready immediately. It remains great, but it goes through phases of openness and closure. And today, the 2010 is magnificent again.
GB : What dish pairs particularly well with a wine like Branaire-Ducru?
MC : There are so many possibilities. At Restaurant Ressources right now, with autumn arriving and game season beginning, we’re working with venison.
Naturally, that calls for a wine with a bit more power, but we preserve that slightly sanguine character, lifted by a vegetal touch that we develop across the whole dish. We’re working especially with exotic spinach.
GB : Spinach is known to be difficult to pair with red wine.
MC : True, but with a vintage like 2017, where the vegetal notes are noble, spinach and red fruit create a beautiful dynamic in the pairing.
At Ressources, we like to explore slightly “edgy” territories — lacto-fermented notes, umami-driven broths — like the rye miso made by Château Coutet in Saint-Émilion, which almost evokes soy sauce.
You need meat with texture, without falling into heaviness, so that the fruit and vegetal notes align with the umami of the miso — its light toastiness, its subtle roasted nuances.
GB : The vegetal notes in Branaire-Ducru — those fresh, minty aromas — feel like noble vegetal tones to me.
MC : Yes, absolutely. The Cabernet Sauvignon dominance in Branaire-Ducru gives it its strength and verticality.
It’s an aromatic profile and style we love: never exuberant, never excessively powerful.
